Change

Since the weather wasn’t conducive to heading south to Crotone, we decided to head up the coast, into the Gulf of Taranto, to the town of Gallipoli. Our pilot book describes it as a place not to pass and the description sounded enchanting. So we untied our lines and motor-sailed the 30 or so miles north. Upon arrival we hailed the marina on the VHF only to find out we could only stay one night which was a bit disconcerting since some strong southerlies were supposed to blow the next day and there are really limited options where we can go. But we took advantage of the sure thing for tonight. After spending an hour and a half in the very chic marina office checking in (I could tell because I got to watch an entire episode of a really bad, but entertaining, MTV reality show dubbed in Italian) we headed off in search of a new home for tomorrow. We finally came to a very low key marina/boat yard where we met the very friendly (and English speaking) Lucca. After much consideration and looking at the weather, he decided that it would be safe for us to tie up. But once the wind starts to blow from the north/northwest we would have to move elsewhere. We were just happy to have a place to go. Then it was back to the marina to try and find the Port Police once again. Well, we are trying at least. Instead we found Customs waiting for us outside the office. In very broken English they explained that it isn’t routine for them to look at our papers but they are having problems with illegal immigrants, mostly from Kurdistan. And yesterday alone they found 32 illegal immigrants smuggled in by boat! We happily obliged and they even walked out to the boat. But only to tell us that we are ‘good people’ and they did not feel the need to board. On their departure, we asked if we need to seek out the Port Police to check in to the country and once again were told not to worry about it. This better not come back to bite us! But we were happy to be done with logistics and headed off into the old town. The old medieval town is located on the small island which juts out into the sea and is connected to the new town and mainland by a small bridge. Once again, we wound our way through the small alleys and I admired the shuttered windows, the overly large, adorned doors, the balconies with laundry hanging out to dry. It is a dramatic place but sadly a bit touristy. But Mike took advantage of coming across a barber shop. He has been waiting to get to Italy for a haircut and it was good timing because he needed one! And since I was strolling around, I was glad to hear that I didn’t miss anything…no flaming q-tips to sear off ear hairs this time around. We then found ourselves needing to go back to the boat to put on some warmer clothes before finding a spot for dinner! What happened to our rule of limiting meals out, especially when we are having to pay 63 euro a night for a marina?! But the idea of making a pot of beans on board just doesn’t sound appealing, AT ALL. As we were walking out of the marina we were greeted by a very friendly Italian man who repeatedly gestured the offer to give us a ride. All we could understand was that his name was Francesco, he lived in Lecce and it is bellisimo! He may have even been asking us if we wanted to go to Lecce with him but the short ride into town was as far as we wanted to travel that night. We actually found the new town much more fun and real and enjoyed walking along the wide, tree lined sidewalks, and past the numerous plazas and churches. But once again, a stop at Vodaphone, then we were on the search for more pizza. We spotted a very packed restaurant and decided to look at the menu, unfortunately no pizza, but the Italian patrons appeared to be enjoying the pasta. And finally, good red wine. Oh, it has been too long. After a nice meal, we made a stop to a patisseria for some coffee and dessert which, unknowingly, was the spot to be…on a Tuesday night…at 10:30pm. Europeans must be bored out of their minds when they come to the United States! Here everyone takes to the streets and the plazas until the wee hours. And the kids too! It appeared that there may be one elderly chaperone, sitting on a bench, for each 15 kids out there. But obviously, the chaperones didn’t care and were too busy chatting with one another because the kids were going crazy setting off fireworks, running, screaming. We are actually surprised we didn’t see any missing fingers. And this was followed by a stop in the neighboring plaza which was the playground for the smaller kids and old men sleeping on benches. Much more peaceful and quiet than the firecrackers and screaming kids across the street.
We also want to share that today may the beginning of a change in plans. Mike has voiced that he is tired. Tired of being tired, and tired of being stressed out. Which has been the case for the past 5+ months. Don’t get me wrong. It’s been an amazing experience and we realize how lucky we are for being able to come here and pursue this dream, but the reality is that I don’t know how much fun we’re having anymore. And we both have to admit to feeling a little homesick. The thought of continuing to push west at a rapid pace, facing the inevitably uncomfortable (or dangerous) seas due to the changes in weather just aren’t appealing. We are beginning to question our drive and desire to continue with the attempt to cross the Atlantic. Are we doing it just to say we’ve done it? Are we doing it because this is the absolute perfect boat that we can’t live without? We want to enjoy this time of being away and actually have fun. So what do we do? The idea of finding a marina, maybe on the west coast of Italy near Rome, sounds really, really good. We could have a home base while we explore and not have the worries of facing the oncoming Fall and Winter weather. Maybe we come back and do this second leg next year when we have more energy and didn’t waste it all by working on the boat. Maybe our feelings will change and we will continue our plans of heading west. Wow, we will see what happens.