Staying Put

We awoke to gray skies and rain this morning. Actually the rain continued through the night and the sound of rain drops hitting the deck was so welcomed. After looking at the weather forecast, at probably 4 or 5 different web sites, we made the decision to stay put. Initially we thought of heading to some islands north of Corfu in order to get a jump on our crossing to Italy, but it was still calling for a Force 5-6, just out of the marina, with thunderstorms. In addition, the forecasts always show really variable weather patterns in between us and Italy. The maps look like a vertical rainbow, the colors indicating different wind speeds, anywhere from a Force 6 or 7 (winds around 24-28 knots) to a Force 2 or 3 (winds around 8 to 12 knots, much more favorable!). It makes the planning really difficult, especially if we are considering doing an open crossing overnight to Crotone, Italy. We really don’t want to be stuck out in a Force 7, at night, with 50 miles to the nearest safe harbour. So with all of that information and the winds subsiding tomorrow, our cozy cabin on a rainy day was just too hard to resist. And we made the most of it by watching movies, making nachos, and just hanging out which was the best part. I think we really needed this day to spend together, no boat projects, no decisions to make. Just spending the day together.

Rainy Corfu

Today we officially checked out of Greece with the Port Police. If weather allows, we are planning to start our passage to Italy tomorrow! After a final grocery shop, we took the bus into Corfu town to spend a little more time in that amazing city. But first, we had to drop off our transit log at Customs in town. Mike was tempted to blow it off but I felt that we should abide by the rules when we can. So after what seemed like a really long walk through the rain (yes, rain!), we were told that since a cruise ship was in port, customs was at the very end of the harbour which made for an even longer walk in the rain. It was actually rather enjoyable, except for the blisters forming on my toes, which were unaccustomed to wet leather. It was about then that we realized that we didn’t have our passports, and it would be a big bummer to get all the way there just to be told that we didn’t have all the documents we needed. But we figured we had made it that far and went for it. We finally found the customs man in the tiny office, in the huge building, amongst the masses of cruise ship tourists. We handed him our transit log and he didn’t seem to quite know what we wanted or needed. He then simply said “OK”, and we quickly walked out. We were left with a feeling that our transit log mostly likely ended up in the garbage can after all of that. Oh well. The rain was picking up and my feet were starting to really hurt, so we hopped a bus back to the old town centre and walked the empty, wet alley ways in search of a cozy taverna. After our waiter loudly scoffed at us for sitting at a covered outside table (allright, it was a little cold and wet), we moved inside to a much warmer and drier spot. And what a find! Forget about my previous mention of being bored with Greek food. What turned into just a stop for a beer, turned into a meal and it was delicious! Probably some of the best food we have had in Greece. We finally managed to pull ourselves away and walk back to our bus, but only after an obligatory stop at Vodaphone and an impromptu stop at H&M where we indulged in a sweater for Mike and a pair of leggings for me. Wow. Sweaters and leggings. How times have so quickly changed! Although it was starting to get dark, we weren’t ready to head home yet, so we found another café to sit in and watch the rainy world go by as we enjoyed a warm pick-me-up. Eventually, our (hopefully) dry and cozy boat was calling to us, so we headed back to watch re-runs of ‘True Blood’ and sip on Baileys as we snuggled on the day bed. Perfect. Well, except for the really leaky window we found. Shit. More boat projects…

Breakfast!

After waking up and doing a little work and putzing around the boat, we got around to making our much anticipated breakfast! While cooking French toast and bacon and mixing up some Bloody Marys, we were listening to KEXPs streaming archive of ‘Positive Vibrations’. It felt like we were trying to recreate a Saturday morning at home and we came pretty close. If only Sunny was lying at our feet. But the day ended up flying by, I guess that is what happens when you don’t eat ‘breakfast’ until 1pm and then take a nap. In the evening, I finally left the boat for the first time and as we were walking around, discovered I had some restless energy and just taking a stroll along the docks wasn’t satisfying enough. Luckily, we stumbled across a cricket field and I suddenly had an urge to throw a Frisbee. So while Mike went to the store to buy a couple of beers, I ran back to the boat and grabbed the Frisbee and boomerang. We took off our flip flops and ran around in the wet grass trying to get as much play time in as we could before the sky grew dark. It was the perfect summer evening.

Fire in the Sky

Another day in the marina… The temperatures continue to be cooler with the wind. The thermometer read 26 degrees in the shade and 30 degrees in the sun! Loving it! Mike attempted to raise the main sail but only to the first track due to the wind. But the first track didn’t stick! As Mike continued on projects, I continued my research on Italy. There aren’t a whole lot of places to stop along the heel and the toe. And the places are about 60 miles apart. So we are trying to come up with a plan, do we do several really long days or do we push on and do a couple of overnight crossings so we can make it to Siracusa, Sicily? Even though it is a bit out of the way to the south, it would be a shame to bypass Sicily all together and I just don’t think I can swallow that. And on our walk to the grocery store, Mike asked if we should just head straight to Sardinia from the Straights of Messina and pass the west coast of Italy all together. WHAT?! I have to say that at that moment I thought what the hell are we doing all of this for. Why are we spending all of our money (and time away from home) just to make miles and not see at least a few of the amazing places along the way? But Mike quickly came to his senses and was totally agreeable with Italy. But sadly, that may mean that we don’t have too much time in Sardinia. But at this point, my dream is to spend a little bit of our "vacation" on the Amalfi Coast with Mike. And I will play the ‘honeymoon’ card if I have to:)
But all was made even better when we stumbled across maple syrup in the grocery! It is the one thing that, for some reason, I always crave when traveling. And it is always hard to find and always really expensive. Except for today. So with that in our basket, we added breakfast items and makings for Bloody Marys to our shopping list!
The rest of the day entailed Mike trying to get a sail cover made for our staysail since his attempt was foiled by our ancient sewing machine deciding to call it quits. We then spent a lot of time looking at charts and weather so we could plan our departure. For some reason this is really difficult. In part due to the distance, not many options on the heel and the toe of Italy and the really variable weather in between Corfu and the south coast of Italy. But at this point it looks like we will be here at least until tomorrow or Saturday. In the evening we took a walk around the docks to stretch our legs. And there was a huge fire across the bay evident by the huge plume of smoke that was quickly growing and blowing over the marina. And I am sure the strong winds weren’t helping the fight. But luckily, the smoke gradually dissipated and it seemed like the fire was under control. But it made from some really interesting skies and photos.

Limbo

It feels like we are limbo. We need to be here to get some projects done but are also itching to leave and make miles. And this marina isn’t the most exciting place to be. Too bad we couldn’t have Levkas town right behind us. Instead Corfu Town is about a 20 minute bus ride away but we haven’t seemed to be able to make it back there. Mike is filling his days by crossing projects off the list such as wiring our second VHF radio in the cockpit and mounting clip-in hooks for our harnesses in the cockpit. And it felt like another day of being held captive on the boat waiting for the sail rigger to come. But of course he doesn’t come until we give up and start walking into town where we run into him. But the good news is that he came to the boat and put a screw in the track gate which will keep it closed so the track slides don’t get stuck in it. Mike isn’t convinced this will be a sure fix and is asking the rigger to look into the possibility and cost of having a different track mounted to the mast. I spent the day on the boat doing a whole lot of nothing. I did start to research Italy and Morocco which was good and gives me a better idea of where we can and cannot go. In the afternoon we both needed to get off the boat so we walked out of the marina to a different chandlery and to the grocery store. Exciting, I know. But it was fun to be in a real and stocked grocery store again. There was also a good breeze blowing today which made the temperatures a lot cooler, and that combined with the smell of wood smoke gave me a feeling that fall is in the air. I just hope that I am not setting myself up too much for disappoint! But as the evening came the temperatures just got cooler and cooler and we found ourselves digging out our layers from the hanging locker. It felt so good to put on a jacket! And the skies have been amazing here today. The craziest cloud formations I have ever seen. And the sunset only made them even more spectacular.

Trying to document myself wearing a jacket!

And to continue the honesty, Mike and I came to a small blow tonight. For me it started with being frustrated over the continued stress that Mike seems to carry. And along with that, the preoccupation with the boat and really, just missing my husband. During our walk today, ‘Mikey’ was with me but as soon as we returned to the boat it felt like ‘Michael’ was back. Mike’s view is that he is trying to work on this boat which is incredibly frustrating at times. And it’s not going to get done unless he does it, because he feels that sometimes I have taken a back seat to helping with those projects. A few more frustrations got aired and after a walk to take a breather, we made peace for the night. And slept in the aft cabin (with a blanket!) which is whole lot nicer than the v-berth where only our toes touch.

Another gyro...

This morning we left the walls of the fortress to motor a few miles up the coat to Gouvia Marina. We can’t say that a marina is where we want to spend our time but we’ll have the best chance of getting work done, hopefully quickly. And it wasn’t long before the sail rigger came by and had an idea for a simple fix that he will get to tomorrow. But not so much luck with the steel worker. We were hoping to get a new bow roller installed so it would be easier for me to get the anchor up. It sounds like the job is involved and he is booked with work this week. And again, we don’t have time to wait. Meanwhile, I had an epic day posting blogs and it felt good to get caught up while we finally have a decent internet connection. It wasn’t until late in the day when we both ventured off the boat together to go check out the sleepy town. And wouldn’t you know it, they have an Indian restaurant! Even with Thai curries on the menu! It’s funny because I was just talking about how I am getting a little tired of always having the same menu everywhere we go…tszatziki, moussaka, eggplant, calamari... (I know, it is all very delicious but if that is your only option after several months then it gets a bit boring). And wouldn’t Indian or Thai food be delicious! But also with that conversation came our decision to restrict our meals out and try to eat cheaply. So we bypassed the Indian and Thai food and opted for ANOTHER gyro which we enjoyed on the church steps across the street. And I have a feeling that very soon pizza will be the new gyro which sounds pretty good to me!

A Fortress as Our Backyard

So happy this place is quiet and we are protected from the bars and cafes in town by a fortress! While I was feeling under the weather and writing the blog, Mike worked on odds and ends from our project list. In the afternoon, we escaped the heat on the boat and sat in the shaded courtyard just across from us. It’s amazing to think about the history of this place and the events that have occurred in the exact spot where we are relaxing and sipping on more retsina. After a very late afternoon nap (doing our best to get on local time) we discovered an outdoor movie theatre. When we were in Greece a few years ago this was one of my favorite things to do, sit under the starry sky in the cooler night air and watch a movie. And guess what they were showing? Inception. We got our wish of seeing it again, just sooner than we imagined. We then got to take another incredible walk through the old fort at night so we could make our way back down into the harbor. Unforgettable.