Our Blue Lagoon

We were all up early when we pulled anchor at 7:30am to make our way through the Corinthian Canal. We timed the trip perfectly with a few minutes for Lucca to get off the boat and swim in the nearby beach and tire himself out for a nap while we transited. We were all able to enjoy the trip through the historic canal (which links the Ionian and Aegean Seas) with Mike at the helm and Heather, Shan and I sitting up at the bow. It is mind blowing to think that in the 7th century BC, before the canal was built, they dragged small ships across the isthmus by pulling them on rollers. It was a pretty awesome experience and I have to say it was worth the 215 euro.






After a few more hours of motoring (again no wind and ultimately no working main sail) we finally arrived to Kolpos Domvrainis on the north coast of the Gulf of Corinth. Since we have been on this boat, we use Rod Heikell’s pilot books which have always been really accurate. Well, not today. It was a long day with pulling anchor at 7:30am, then the stop to transit the canal, with more motoring to arrive at around 5pm with a swim and drinks on our mind. The coast was described as being full of protected anchorages and it looked really ideal. As we were reading the pilot book stating depths of 5-10 meters (16-33 or so feet), our depth sounder was reading depths of 100+ feet which rose steeply to shallow beaches. We found one beach that looked idyllic except for another small motor boat anchored in the middle. So we moved on and attempted another beautiful cove to try and drop chain in 80 feet of water to only end up with very little scope by the time our stern was in shallow water which we were not easy about. We then circled back to the idyllic beach with the locals motioning us in but yet another failed attempt. All while people were getting cranky and me not wanting to have too many failed attempts because pulling up 150+ feet of chain was actually uncomfortable (proven later by bruising on my flank and arm from getting banged up by the hatch while pulling in chain). So after more cruising around, only to discover that all of the depths were 100+ feet, we saw the little motor boat departing from ‘our’ bay. With no other options, and now more room to maneuver, we decided to try again and this time it worked. We got a pretty good hold with enough chain out to make us comfortable. Mike then took a few lines to shore to help hold us into place. It is one of those times where all of that trouble and stress paid off. We ended up in a magical place, our own little blue lagoon. We were surrounded by high cliff walls with our own private beach which was perfect for Lucca. The water was crystal clear blue with a very refreshing layer of cold water on top, maybe from a fresh spring. I immediately jumped in the water and we all swam, threw rocks and played until the sky started to grow dark. We then proceeded to ‘bliss out’ as we sat in the open cockpit enjoying cool drinks and making dinner by candlelight. I think the one person who couldn’t completely let him self go was Mike. The long days of working, the race to get to Athens, now the responsibility of having friends and a 2 year old on board were showing. Of course, there have been times where Mike has been carefree and having fun, but also times where the pressure and fatigue seemed to be more apparent. Since Mike wanted to sleep on deck tonight, I sent him on his way with a cockpit cushion when he was obviously very tired. But it wasn’t much longer before Shan, Heather and I decided to follow and lay on the decks to look at the stars. And even less time for me to fall asleep next to Mike.

Here We Go!

After a morning of last minute provisioning we pulled out of our slip at noon. But again, not without a hitch. The pilot book says that there may be some old mooring chain left on the harbour floor which you can snag your anchor on. And of course, as we are well away from the dock our anchor gets stuck at 50 feet, at the bottom of the harbour. Our next door neighbor was on his bow with anticipating that he may have crossed us, so was letting out some chain. For a moment I thought we were really stuck, and didn't think it was because of our neighbor. Mike also thought the worst and was thinking we were going to have to back into our spot once again to hire a diver. But after another try of reverse and forward we managed to bring it up. I think it was a big mishap luckily diverted. And while all of this was going on, Heather was in the cockpit with Lucca and handling a meltdown. I can’t say that I noticed it while up at the bow but like anyone, she was really upset with Lucca’s cries potentially not letting us hear one another in this time of quick action. Afterwards, Heather shared with us that she had her own “mini mama meltdown” and wondered if they should just all head back to Athens and go home since the sailing part was off to a rough start. But once Lucca had his life jacket on and Heather brought him back on the foredecks, he settled in after a bit of a cry and actually started to have fun. The smiles and laughs came back and Team Perera were back on board with the adventure!

We then motored the 23 miles north to a big, expansive beach with steep mountains to one side. While Shan and I were at the bow lowering the anchor we could hear Lucca yell “Ok Pappa ok! Ok Mike-n-suri ok!” He was completely excited and helping Mike with skippering the boat! After we got a really good hold we all jumped in the water to cool off and play. Heather, Lucca and I even dinghied to shore so we could all take a little walk and throw rocks in the water. Once back on the boat Lucca was full of love. I think it was the second day of them being here where the Lucca Love started. It’s usually in the afternoons when he gets super affectionate with me and will snuggle me, kiss me, take my face in his hands and stare into my eyes. Oh my god, there is nothing like it.
Lucca has been a trooper this trip but I think we were all really relieved to see how happy he was this afternoon while we hung out in the cockpit playing games and all were more at ease each time he smiled and laughed. And little Lucca was so tuckered out that we had to keep him awake just so he could eat a little of his (one of many) grilled cheese sandwiches. I am sure the heat and disruption to routine has thrown a loop into his appetite (and sleep) and I know we were all also really happy to see him eat anything. After everyone else had gone to bed, Heather and I laid on the forward decks and looked at the shooting stars while catching up on life and friends back home. I am already getting sad about the day we say goodbye.

A Day in Poros

After a slow morning of waking up after a better night’s sleep (thanks to the fans) we all made our way down the street and found a little pastry café where we ordered up a smorgasborg of pastries filled with spinach and feta, ham and cheese, chocolate! After doing a good job of putting it all away we took a stroll through town. It was a slow walk due to Mike and I needing to make stops at Vodaphone and the chandlery shop for a new windlass fuse, etc. All the while, Heather and Shan had Lucca to chase after as he was pulling his brand new dumptruck down the sidewalk with either fast cars on one side and water on the other, or through narrow alleyways full of people.


We finally reconvened and were able to take a walk up into town that was built into the hillside. It was quintessential Greece that we were all excited to see. But jet lag and nap time made for a meltdown and poor Heather having to finally pick Lucca up and carry him back to the boat like a screaming and kicking football.


Surprisingly, once back to the boat the cabin was cooler than outside and Lucca, Shan and Mike took naps (unfortunately with Lucca’s being the shortest of the three). Since we had internet we spent time trying to figure out what was wrong with Heather’s Nikon SLR camera that all of a sudden started to show an ‘error’ message while at the beach yesterday. There was no luck either on line or at the local camera shop. I know a huge bummer to Heather since she loves that camera and takes amazing photos. But we moved on and tried really hard to get motivated to leave Poros tomorrow. The heat just makes it so hard to do anything, especially things like shopping and cleaning. And Heather and I got to take on the sweaty task of grocery shopping. On the walk to the store we found an abandoned shopping cart on the way. It was a life saver! Except for the bum wheel. After loading it up with food, beer and wine (and unknowingly adult diapers, size 3 in Greece does not correlate with size 3 in America we later found out), we managed to push and shove it back to the boat. Nothing like ghetto grocery shopping with our jar of kitty money!

Beer and adult diapers. Let the fun begin!

By the time we made it back I was starving so stopped by the gyro shop to bring back dinner for everyone. And tonight’s timing was better than the last interruption by the fuel guy. At least we got to eat before having to drag another hose through the cockpit. After Lucca went to bed the adults shared a mojito on the forward deck to try and provide a little more quiet for the sleeping toddler. But despite being really tired, Heather and I managed to end the evening with a quick shopping spree. With a new dress in hand for the both of us we managed to get to bed at an early-ish hour so we could be bright and cheery for our departure tomorrow!

Welcome to Our Sauna

Oh, it was a hot night for all of us. But early in the morning Mike was able to snag a place to plug in our electrical cord so we had power for our fans! Since the Pereras were still sleeping we turned the fans on their sweaty bodies and left the boat for a cup of coffee and a chocolate croissant. But only returned to the boat, a couple of times, to find them all still slumbering and catching up on much needed sleep. At 11am they began to arouse and after some coffee and chatting we decided to go explore one of the beaches near town. After the fun idea of taking a boat ride to the beach was a no-go (20 euro for a 5 minute ride) we jumped on one of the local buses and were there before we knew it. But not before Lucca could fall asleep. So we found some umbrellas and lounge chairs to escape the sun and ordered up some rum and cokes while Lucca was napping. After an afternoon of swimming, another round of drinks, some food, we were ready to start making our way back to the boat. Only to realize that Shan’s debit card wasn’t working due to being out of the country and also the realization of having very limited cash on hand. There was a moment of panic but we managed to have one euro to spare after paying our bill and the bus driver. Whew!


While we were all enjoying ourselves at the beach, Mike stayed on board to try and get some last minute work done. He was able to plumb the shower pump(!) but people opted to rinse off in the cockpit again because it was just too freaking hot in the cabin and you might as well not shower because you just start to profusely sweat again once the water is turned off. After people hosed off, the bathroom/cockpit was then transformed into cocktail bar and Heather started pouring us all some delicious gin and tonics. After Shan put Lucca down Mike grilled up some of his amazing burgers and we all sat amidst the lively town that surrounded us. And we’re not sure if it was a good thing or bad thing to have the beer shop right across from our boat!

The Pereras Have Arrived!

Again, in the dawn light, we were preparing to leave our lovely anchorage. Mike had to swim ashore to untie our 2 stern lines which were holding us in place since the anchorage was a tight one. We also had a spring line because of the breeze, which only picked up a little over night. So instead of Mike untying that one from shore, and having the possibility of getting blown into our neighbors before there was time to pull it in or Mike to swim back, we let it go from the boat. Once we were only tethered by the anchor, and a safe distance from other boats, Mike had to make the swim to shore to retrieve all of that line. I’m happy he’s a strong swimmer.
It wasn’t long after we had left Kithnos that the wind started to pick up. For most of the morning it was around a constant 20 knots right on our nose (the other version of sailing in the Med) and pretty choppy seas. We kept plodding along and tried not to look at our speed which had dropped to about 4.8 knots. Especially after our phone call from the Pereras letting us know they arrived in Athens and would be catching the ferry to Poros at 4pm! Thankfully the winds started to let up and we increased speed which had us arriving in Poros with plenty of time to clean and get organized for their arrival! We started to look for their hydrofoil (or water bug as we call them) and ran to greet them at the dock. We could peer through the salt coated windows and see Heather and an obviously just woken up Lucca! So amazing to give them all hugs and welcome them on board! It’s so funny how after all of the ups and downs of them joining us, we end up arriving to our rendezvous place within 2 hours of each other! The only bummer is that it was HOT. And of course, we tie up to the dock where there were only 2 plug ins for our type of electrical cord adapter…and they were already taken. And we don’t have the other adapter it takes. As the afternoon progressed more and more boats just started to arrive and quickly grabbed up the last spot to plug in. It only meant no power on Independence tonight and not being able to turn on any fans in the sauna like cabin. Not so fun for a family with a 2 year old who have been traveling for the past 2 days with almost no sleep. But the Pereras were champs and made the best of an uncomfortable situation. Since the shower was out of commission we transformed the cockpit into our own private (maybe semi-private is a better description) bathroom. Lucca got the first bath and then with bikinis on, and a glass of wine in hand, Heather and I proceeded to follow. All with Mike curled up in the corner trying to find a cool place to sleep, neighbors on adjacent boats and the entire town walking by. We were all joking how this was going to bond us for life! While the boys were sleeping, or attempting to sleep, Heather and I sat on the aft deck in our towels, drinking wine and catching up. I can’t tell you how fantastic it is to be with friends again!

Kithnos

We were both awoken at 2am to the noise of really loud music and people partying hard at the bars in town. We finally gave up sleeping around 5am and decided to get an earlier start than usual. Even while we were pulling anchor at 6am in the pre-dawn light they were just showing signs of slowing down. I even got a glimpse of our Dutch lads stumbling home and really having to negotiate the passerelle so they didn’t take an unexpected swim. It’s probably ok that we never got that beer to them.
We were happy to be on the water in the peace and quiet. Well, except for the sound of our diesel engine. The morning was amazing with the water like glass for most of the day. I took advantage of the calm and finally got the last of my varnishing projects done! Afterwards, we were both able to take turns at napping to try and make up for our lack of sleep last night. And it was so calm that I was able to have the laptop in the cockpit for my ‘watch’ and multi-task with keeping an eye out and writing the blog. The day sped by and we were anchored in Kithnos before we knew it. We found ourselves with the whole afternoon and Mike worked on some final projects in the head in preparation for the Pereras arrival. Finally the work was done and we were able to swim and lounge in the shade of our cockpit. Have I mentioned how nice our new cockpit is? We really don’t know how we managed before with that low steel roof, steel seats and no shade. No wonder we were always so exhausted at the end of a day being on the water. We were probably spending all of our energy trying to hide from the sun.
As the charter boats started to pour in and struggle with anchoring and taking lines to shore, we we were on top of the world. Here we are styling in our own boat, listening to music and finally enjoying all we have work towards. It couldn’t have felt any better. Before bed we took a quick swim in the twilight and then took a rinse in our shower with a new filter in place. But here comes another buzz kill. The water pump wasn’t draining the pan and it looks like the filter may have been placed one shower too late. Shit again. A little worrisome that we are going to have 3 others on board and not have a shower or rinse to offer. Oh well, gotta push onward.

Naxos rages on pre-dawn

Our cozy cockpit

Mike chillaxin

Dolphins!