Boat Camping

We sure made up for our lazy day yesterday. My foot felt better and hopefully wearing my running shoes (no more Tevas or flip flops) until we get rid of that stupid ladder will help. Plus we both slept through the night! Maybe one of the three times since we arrived on the boat! After my last ruminating about my poor sleep, we found the fan which we now have in the aft cabin. It makes all the difference to keep the air cooler and prevent the mosquitoes from buzzing in our ears…or at least keep us from hearing them. This morning we wasted no time getting to work after listening to the Net. Mike even managed to snag a free bike from one of the giveaways. Rusted, flat tire, no seat…but he has faith that with a little elbow grease he can get it to carry him to the store. I got another coat of varnish on the wheel (that thing is a thorn in my side) and while Mike was still tackling the plumbing puzzle in the head, I got to work on the electrical box. Talk about a rat’s nest! It has always looked a bit scary and has been on the ‘to do’ list for quite a while. Only to move up in priority since there was a leak right above it and we now get to install some new navigational equipment! I got to dissemble everything (sure hope I labeled it all right) and cleaned up the rust and grime on the busbars and back panel. I then got to clean every end of copper wire with something called Pur Coz (hailed as the wonder cleaner) and attach new connectors. Along with a coat of paint on the back panel to cover up the rust stains, it looks less like a fire hazard anyways. It was actually one of the most satisfying jobs but that was the easy part. Tomorrow will be the test to see if everything turns on or lights up. And that means… no electricity tonight. That’s a good combination with no floor boards! But thankfully, Mike had bought an adapter for our shore power line so we were able to plug in a lovely fluorescent light to see by. We weren’t really terribly hungry but figured we should BBQ the marinating chicken since we weren’t sure about power to the fridge for the night. As Mike was at the grill, I was fixing us a glass of Raki (to help us get through the night) and making a greek salad. While I was standing under the blue glow of light, cooking with no running water, and then later brushing my teeth with a head light on, it especially felt like camping tonight!

One Step Closer

This morning we found ourselves having a hard time getting out of bed. What did they put in that margarita we wondered? I would open my eyes and think about getting up, only to fall back in slumber. Mike finally made to first move when he needed to make some calls to organize the day. As we were still lounging and drinking coffee, there came a knock on the hull. Our neighbors, Christian and Ilza, were going in the water today and our boats were parked pretty close to one another. There wasn’t enough room to get the travel lift in so since we are in a cradle they wanted to move us out of the way. The only difficulty was that we have a lot of stuff accumulated under our boat. So after moving random pieces of steel, scraps of wood, another inherited wind vane, etc we were moved just a couple of boat lengths away (at least it was towards the water and not further away from it!). And all worth it in the end because we have a much lovelier spot. We have a little garden and grove of Eucalyptus and palm trees on our port side and no one directly next to us. It is also nice to not be right on top of Demir’s shop and all of the hustle and noise. The only unfortunate thing is my new foot has had it with the ladder. It was doing so well but I have noticed some aches and pains over the past week or two. And my foot really didn’t like the ladder this morning. I think it could handle it occasionally, but after 4 weeks of up and down, up and down, it has reached its limit. So with orders from my personal nurse, I was forbidden from the ladder and laid low with my foot up and Ibuprofen in my system. Between my foot and our slow and tired start, this day has become a bit of a write-off. Mike did manage to run into town for a few needed items, but overall we both find ourselves unmotivated and unwilling to take much on. Maybe this will be our Sunday for the week…

Cinco de Mayo...an excuse to drink margaritas anywhere!

Tonight we got to lay eyes on our new dodger in Mehmet’s shop! It was just the steel frame but looks pretty great and we can’t wait to get it installed. We have also decided to go with a roll bar which will be another steel frame that attaches to the transom. It will give us a place to attach our solar panels (which are the next thing to be ordered and will hopefully make us energy self-sufficient), hang our dingy, and, most importantly attach our BBQ! The original plan was for Mehmet to come tomorrow and start installing the dodger. But since the marina charges outrageous amounts for non contracted workers (it’s a little Mafioso around here) to come through the gate, Mehmet wants to wait and do it all at once. So we have a little delay until next Friday. It makes us feel a bit closer to the wire of our deadline of getting into the water the first week of June but should still be able to happen. After we visited with Mehmet in his office, we headed into town to grab a quick dinner since we had the car. We weren’t finding ourselves too hungry so decided to wander over to “Bar Street”. Even though we both can’t remember when we last celebrated Cinco de Mayo at home and it's not celebrated here (or even Mexico for that matter) we decided to have a margarita! Oh my god, they were more like a margarita martini and we definitely got our 10 lira worth! Especially on an empty stomach! After chatting with our friendly waiter, Firat and giving and getting music recommendations, we were able to make our way to a restaurant to help absorb some of that tequila. Turkish pizza of a couple varieties (pide and lahmacun) hit the spot. We sat outside and enjoyed the cool night air as we told ourselves to enjoy the feel of our fleece jackets because these nights aren’t going to last much longer. After dinner we were drawn to the café across the street with live music on the patio. We enjoyed a cappuccino and desert while listening to two young men play beautiful, traditional Turkish songs. The wait staff and customers were silently singing along, as we got caught up in a game of peek-a-boo with a charming 2 year old celebrating his birthday. A lovely way to end the day.w

our Turkish margaritas

See the 'Why Not' bar? That sounds like trouble

Mike's da man!

I am so amazed by and proud of Mike. He has tackled this boat and it’s never ending projects with determination and tenacity. He has been able to organize, manage and carry through with various jobs (big and small) which need to happen before we can set sail, also ones to keep us comfortable and most importantly safe. The boat and her needs never stray far from his mind, if at all. It is an all consuming job during the haul outs just to stay ‘above water’ and keep on track. And what astounds me most is the attitude he carries through all of this. While I become frustrated over some little thing, Mike remains calm despite the 10 times he has to run to the chandlery for just that one more piece that is needed to complete a job. Or starting a new project and just having it lead to five more unexpected things that need to be done. I know he will read this and probably disagree. And there are moments where he may loose his cool for a second or get discouraged for a moment. But overall, he keeps everything in perspective and continues on despite the various obstacles thrown at him. And in the midst of everything, he is still able to be a wonderful husband and friend who helps me get through the tough days.
And today was no different. He was able to buy new batteries after a lot of research on what would be most beneficial to us. He spent the afternoon lugging old ones off the boat, lugging the new ones on and getting them wired. Mike, each day is one day closer to being on anchor, surrounded by clear blue water, with a cocktail in hand instead of a power tool or varnish brush!

Poor guy...he's so busy working on the boat that he can't even find the time to get a hair cut:)

Puppy Love

Yeah, Mondays are hard. That one peaceful day seems to make the grinders sound even louder the next morning. I think there was more of the usual today, some sanding, some varnishing and work on the head but writing this a couple of days later makes it hard to remember. But what I did recall this afternoon was a dream from the night before. I dreamed that I was home and in the kitchen with Sunny glued to my hip. We were only planning to be home for a brief time and then return to the boat in Turkey. It was a beautiful spring day and I remember thinking that if we were leaving we better do it soon. I was feeling pretty happy to be home and thought that the longer we stay the harder it will be to walk out that door again. But I mostly remember the feeling of being close to Sunny. He was just this big yellow fur ball of love and happiness, sappy I know but true. There is just no way to feel down with him next to your side and giving you his unconditional love. When I remembered the dream I told Mike and the next thing I know I had tears running down my cheeks. We talked and reminisced about Sunny and home for a little bit. And I swear I also spotted some tears on Mike’s cheeks as well. I think he has been in a bit of denial. It was good to think about home and all of our family and friends who we miss so dearly. And thank you again, Kirk and Judy, for taking care of our boy.

Another Perfect Sunday

Ahhhhh….. Sunday! Last Sunday didn’t really feel like a Sunday what with the Boat Jumble, shopping, cleaning and preparing for dinner with Uli… so today we’re making up for it. We slept late and woke up slowly. I fried up some left over potatoes while Serena lounged on the day bed enjoying coffee and the lack of noise from grinders and travel lifts. With some onions, garlic and tomatoes thrown in for good measure, we served up breakfast complete with yogurt, hot sauce and orange juice. Not a bad start. We then returned to the arduous task of lounging, but now with the added effort of digesting on top of it! Reading, writing, listening to Melody Gardot and Jack Johnson. Nice. Maybe if we get up the energy we’ll get out for a walk, or a swim. It feels good to rest up. Lately we both have noticed feeling stiff and sore. I guess it’s not that surprising, but it’s hard to point to a particular activity that would cause it (besides perhaps aging?). A cumulative effect I suspect. A day of stretching the legs and swimming in the Mediterranean might be just what’s in order…
And indeed it was. OK the swim didn’t happen. At least not in the Med. As we were leaving the marina we got a call from a man who was interested in buying our self-steering wind vane that I had bought last year. It was one of those morning Net super deals that I jumped on for fear of it disappearing. Only afterwards doing some research on it did I discover that it was not compatible with our hydraulic steering system. At least we sold it for the same price we paid for it, so the cost of our education was simply stumbling over the thing for a few months. Serena waited poolside while I completed the transaction, which took about an hour. I met her there and after a quick dip we decided to continue with the walk. The marina is situated on an isthmus between the mainland and what used to be an island.


The pavement ends at the marina, and if you continue on a gravel two-track leads you up on and into the hills and forests of this good sized island/point (called Paradise Island by the locals). By this time it was getting to be mid-afternoon, which was perfect for walking. The heat of mid-day had dissipated, and the lower-angled light made the views even more stunning and the forests even softer as it was filtered through the trees. This really is an amazingly beautiful place.










It felt good to walk in woods. I miss that. These woods have seen people coming and going for centuries, maybe even millennia. They are uninhabited now, but last year on a walk with my brother John we came across the remains of a stone wall and some sort of structure near a creek bed. Then, now, and on other jaunts I’ve come across shacks of unknown purpose. Storage? Squatting? Sheppards’ camp? Hard to say. There are numerous bee boxes also. Some active, some not. Somebody has to tend them…









We started to feel some pangs of hunger, so we turned around and headed for home. The lateness of the day and thoughts of a nice meal helped us to decide against a swim. Before he left Uli had told us of this restaurant that we had to try. It’s called the Missing Link and is about a 15 minute drive or minibus (dolmus) ride from the marina. We had hoped to take the car, but somebody must have grabbed it before us because we couldn’t find it. Ah well. We grabbed a beer at the store and drank it as we waited for the dolmus.


We found the place without a problem and proceeded to have one of the best meals I’ve had in Turkey. This place is incredible. OK, so it doesn’t have waterfront dining like Orange does, but its back patio is nestled up to the woods and the evening light was magical.


It’s run by this Austrian couple from Vienna. We didn’t meet her, but he is this guy named Hardy. He’s owned several bars and restaurants over a couple of decades and they set up this one about a year ago. His Turkish chef has been with him for almost 20 years and has run some high end kitchens in Vienna. The experience shows. The flavors were fresh and delicate and woven together with a masters’ touch. And they’ve gotten a line on wild pig. Since nobody eats pork in this country, they literally run wild. The story goes that some pigs were rummaging in the forests behind the restaurant, so Hardy lured them to the fence and then knocked one on the head with a hammer. Their harvesting techniques have grown a bit more sophisticated since. At least I hope so. I didn’t ask. As it turns out it’s just as well we didn’t drive, because after we ate Hardy joined us at our table with a bottle of vodka and poured us a few rounds as we sat and chatted. Apparently he’s been coming to Marmaris off and on for 24 years and told us stories of times before the cruise ships and all-inclusive (low budget) resorts. He offered to show us around some one of these days. Hopefully it’ll work out that we can take him up on it. After a most enjoyable meal and conversation we reluctantly departed so we could catch the dolmus back to the marina. Hardy sent us on our way with full bellies, stimulated minds, fresh grapefruit from his garden, and couple of wild pork sausages for breakfast. The ultimate host. As we waited in the dark for the dolmus to arrive, the entirety of the day settled upon us and we realized with a satisfied grin that we have another entry for the “most perfect day” contest. I look forward to fielding more competitors.

Crazy Mozzies

It’s happening again…when we were hauled out in Cyprus I would wake up like clock work every morning around 2am, hot and being chased by mosquitoes. Thankfully, the Turkish mosquitoes are not as crazed as the Cypriot variety. I don’t know what was up with those mozzies but I pictured them as little Japanese fighter pilots on methamphetamine. Instead of just buzzing around your ear, they would dive bomb your ear... literally fly into your ear. Do you know how loud it is when a mosquito actually flies into your ear? It was quite disturbing and I should consider myself lucky that the Turkish mozzies are not as brazen. But I don’t know what it is about that spot in bed. If it is being next to the bulkhead (or wall) which makes it warmer or if it is my circadian rhythm that fires up at 2 in the morning. But it has gotten to be a little annoying with it happening again on most nights. Especially when I look over at Mike who is fast asleep (jet lag must finally be resolved) and under both comforters with no mozzies flying in his ears! The night before last Mike offered to change spots with me and I quickly accepted. But soon felt bad because I could feel the cool breeze on my face from the open hatch while also feeling Mike swatting the mosquitoes who were now buzzing his head! Last night, when I awoke at 2am, sweating and swatting, I decided to go into the salon and sleep on the day bed. I figured that at least I would be cooler so I could hide under the covers and not leave any vulnerable arms or legs out for a feeding. So with the blanket pulled up around my face I tried to ignore the buzzing and go to sleep. I must have been successful for a while because I do remember a dream but it wasn’t a good night. But I have the best husband, because upon pulling myself out of bed, there was no propane left to heat the water for my cup of coffee. Mike instantly got the tanks and went to the store to get them refilled so I could have a hot cup of caffeine to ease the sleepless night. Or maybe he felt guilty about sleeping in the good spot! (uh…Mike here. NO! that is DEFINITELY not it! I’m just a good husband!)
The day ended up being much more productive than yesterday. Mike was able to get most of the plumbing for the toilet completed which is not an easy job. There was a lot of grunting and contortion going on in order to get the hosing from point A to point B. I sanded and got a coat of varnish on our companion way hatch cover but also sanded the tips of my fingers off making a go at the wheel (lots of little grooves and corners). I think that is going to be a project that I tackle a little each day. And the pizza was so good last night that we had another repeat of Little Italy while concluding our Godfather marathon. Man, Sophia Coppola really was terrible. We’re happy she moved to directing!